Home / The Modern Holy City

09 — Light and shadow of modernisation

150 years of the town called the "Holy City".

The Meiji Restoration changed Ise to its roots. Temples vanished, the oshi vanished, and in their place came railways, museums and a new role as the centre of state ritual. Uji-Yamada City, the Shinto tram line, the Sangū Express: we trace Ise's era as Shinto, the "Holy City", as a chain of events each triggering the next.

Uji-Yamada Station building with early Showa design
Uji-Yamada Station (1931)

The question of this room

What disappeared from Ise with the Meiji Restoration?

THE QUESTION

What did Edo-period Ise have that today's Ise doesn't?

The answer: Buddhist temples, and the oshi. Edo-period Uji and Yamada had many temples and streets lined with oshi mansions. In the first years of Meiji, both disappeared within a few years.

The 1868 edicts separating Shinto from Buddhism triggered haibutsu kishaku, the destruction of Buddhist temples and images, across Japan. In Uji and Yamada, at Jingu's feet, it was especially fierce: nearly 200 temples are said to have been closed. Buddhist elements were removed from Jingu's grounds and surroundings, and monks disappeared completely from the sacred precinct.

Then in the Jingu reforms of 1871, the oshi system was abolished along with hereditary priesthoods. The system that had supported Ise's economy throughout the Edo period was gone almost overnight.

Emperor and shrine

A first: Emperor Meiji's visit

In 1869, Emperor Meiji worshipped at Jingu. This is considered the first reliably recorded visit to Jingu by a reigning emperor in person. Since antiquity, emperors had sent envoys to Jingu but never gone themselves. The visit symbolised the beginning of the modern era, in which Jingu was positioned as the centre of state ritual.

  1. 1868Shinto–Buddhist separationFierce anti-Buddhist destruction around Jingu
  2. 1869Emperor Meiji worships at JinguThe bond between emperor and Jingu made visible
  3. 1871Jingu reforms; oshi abolishedTalismans distributed nationwide as "Jingu Taima"
  4. 1886–The Shin'enkaiHouses in front of Uji Bridge are relocated to create today's spacious shrine gardens
  5. PrewarUji-Yamada, the "Holy City"A national sacred site and destination for school trips and group pilgrimages

Insider's view: the open space in front of Uji Bridge used to be town. Today there is an expanse of lawn and gravel before Uji Bridge, but in the Edo period inns and houses crowded right up close. The Shin'enkai, a private association founded in 1886, relocated these buildings and landscaped the area as a shrine garden fitting for a sacred precinct. Part of what we take to be "timeless Ise" was created in the Meiji era.

The railway arrives

Sangū Railway, the Shinto Line and the Sangū Express

1893

Sangū Railway opens

From Tsu to Miyagawa; four years later, in 1897, it reached Yamada (today's Iseshi Station), linking Ise by rail.

1903

Trams begin running

The tram line later called the "Shinto Line" opens, linking the stations, Gekū, Naikū and Futami.

1906

Uji-Yamada City is born

The two gate towns merge into one city; the name "Holy City" takes hold.

1930–31

Sangū Express opens

A fast electric railway links Osaka directly with Ise (today's Kintetsu). In 1931 the reinforced-concrete Uji-Yamada Station is completed.

1955

Renamed Ise City

Uji-Yamada City becomes "Ise City".

1961

Shinto Line closes

With the spread of cars, the tram disappears after more than half a century.

Uji-Yamada Station, completed in 1931, is a three-storey reinforced-concrete station building and a registered tangible cultural property. Dressed in Spanish-style tiles and terracotta ornament, it was a gateway worthy of the "Holy City", welcoming pilgrims arriving by express from Osaka.

Butterfly effect: how the railway changed pilgrimage

  1. EdoWeeks on footPilgrims stayed at oshi mansions and spent days touring
  2. 1930A day trip from OsakaThe Sangū Express makes same-day visits from Kansai possible
  3. ShōwaPilgrimage without an overnight stayIse shifts from a town to stay in to a town to stop by
  4. Late ShōwaCars, and a hollow gate townVisitors drive straight to the shrine; the gate town empties
  5. 1993–Towards revivalOkage Yokochō brings back "Ise on foot"

The museum hill

Jingu's knowledge gathered on Kurata-yama

On Kurata-yama, between Naikū and Gekū, facilities presenting Jingu's history and culture were brought together in the Meiji era.

Jingu Chōkokan Museum

Opened 1909, designed by Katayama Tōkuma, architect of the Akasaka Palace. A Renaissance-style building displaying Jingu's historical materials and sacred treasures retired after the Sengu. Damaged in the war, it was rebuilt retaining its exterior.

Jingu Agricultural Museum

Opened 1891, said to be one of the oldest industrial museums in Japan. Specimens of the farm and sea products offered to the gods show Jingu's ties with food.

Jingu Art Museum

Opened in 1993 to commemorate the 61st Sengu, housing works of art and craft dedicated on the occasion.

Yamatohime-no-miya

Also on Kurata-yama stands Yamatohime-no-miya, the betsugū founded in 1923. A quiet hill where museums and shrine can be visited together.

War and postwar

From the state's shrine to the people's shrine

In the air raids of 1945, Uji-Yamada City suffered heavy damage, and parts of Jingu and surrounding facilities were hit. After defeat, the Allied occupation's Shinto Directive separated state and Shinto, and Jingu began a new path as a religious corporation.

The first postwar Sengu should have been held in 1949. But postwar turmoil and lack of funds forced a postponement, and only Uji Bridge was rebuilt that year. Thanks to donations from people across Japan, the 59th Shikinen Sengu was finally carried out in 1953. A Sengu funded not by the state but by the people's donations — the same pattern as the Warring States fundraising, and the starting point for how the Sengu is carried out today.

1945

Air raid on Uji-Yamada

Much of the city is damaged.

1946

Jingu becomes a religious corporation

Leaves state control and starts afresh as an independent body.

1953

59th Shikinen Sengu

Four years late, carried out through nationwide donations.

1959

Isewan Typhoon

The shrine forest suffers heavy damage.

2016

G7 Ise-Shima Summit

G7 leaders visit Naikū, and the name of Ise goes out to the world.

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A nun who revived the Sengu, a priest who founded haikai, the Pearl King, and the businessman who saved the gate town.

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